A Sombre Visit to Hiroshima

 The Crystal Weather Bubble finally broke as we headed toward Hiroshima. The captain had said there was rain in the forecast, but we think he may have understated the amount. It wasn't raining really hard, but it was constant, and it didn't take long for our feet to be soaked through our shoes. Good thing we had rain jackets and our umbrella with us! Larry was looking forward to this visit, so he'll start us off.

Our sail in to the harbour. Those flat floating docks
are oyster beds. Hiroshima is the capital of oyster
production in Japan

Sitting in the bus as we waited to leave for the tour

As the bus drove us into the city, our local guide, a pleasant young lady, explained some of Hiroshima's history, and also some of the wartime experiences, as well as what to expect from the tour. I had recently re-read a book, 140 Days to Hiroshima, so the history was fresh in my mind. 

The Enola Gay's "aiming point" for the bomb drop was a very distinctive T-shaped bridge. As we stepped off the bus beside the Atom Bomb Dome, I realized we were standing on that bridge, in almost that very spot! I had seen pictures of the Dome, but had no idea of its relative position. The bomb exploded 3,800 feet above ground about 500 yards to the right of the bridge, not bad aiming from 35,000 feet. 

The actual "Hypocentre", or Ground Zero was directly over a building whose roof is now painted robin's egg blue for easy identification, and about 250 yards further to the right of the Dome. That building, and the Dome were among only five buildings to survive within a five kilometre radius of the blast, and all were heavily damaged. The bomb exploded with a force estimated at 12,000 tons of TNT, and because it was an air blast, the force of the downdraft hit the ground and "bounced" over the buildings, instantly killing everyone in them. It is estimated that 80,000 people died instantly, or within hours of the blast, primarily from burns, with total casualties of approximately 140,000 by the end of 1945.

Some stone markers on the riverside nearby. We
don't know exactly what they commemorate.

After the war, when the government started to think about rebuilding the city, the plan had been to tear down the Dome, but it was decided to retain it, and reinforce it, as a monument to those who died in the attack. Interestingly, the building with the blue roof was saved and is now an office building for an insurance company!

This upside down pagoda is the Monument to the Mobilized Children. In 1944 there was a labour shortage in Japan, so students at high-school level were required to perform labour service as part of their school time. After November, 1944, many of them were sent out to tear down old houses, most of which were made of wood and paper, to create fire breaks in case of air attack. About 6,300 of these students died in the blast. As there was no place to commemorate these children, especially those who couldn't be identified, the bereaved families started a movement to collect funds and built this tower.

This is the Sadako Memorial, named for Sadako Sasaki, a young survivor who later contracted leukemia. Japanese tradition says that if you fold 1,000 origami paper cranes your wish will come true. Sadako folded 1,000, and when her disease persisted, she folded over 1,000 more before she died. Now every year school children from all over Japan are brought to Hiroshima so that they will understand the cost of war and they bring paper cranes to adorn both monuments.

Some call this the Eternal Flame, but in fact it is the Peace Flame, meant to be extinguished when the last nuclear weapon on earth is destroyed. Maybe Eternal Flame is a more realistic name, given the current state of the world.

The Hiroshima Memorial is at the end of the path through the park in front of the Peace Museum. The box under the arch contains the names of all of the known victims of the attack, including ironically, the names of three US POWs who were killed in the blast! Why Hiroshima?? The Americans had four cities listed as possible targets for the first bomb and required four conditions; surrounded by mountains to concentrate the blast, military significance, had not previously been attacked, and had no known POW facilities nearby. Hiroshima best fit the criteria, except for the 12 POWS. Ironically the surviving POWs were taken to Nagasaki after the attack where they were bombed three days later, and actually survived!

After our sombre "walk in the rain", we next visited The Peace Memorial Museum, which contains the records of the attack. The first thing you see is a picture of a clock stopped at 8:15 AM, August 6/45, the exact moment of the explosion. This is followed by a  floor mounted "video simulation" that starts with an overhead shot of Hiroshima that morning, followed by the sound of aircraft engines, with the Little Man bomb, named for FDR, falling through and exploding, followed by film shot from the B29 Enola Gay of the mushroom cloud as it boiled into the sky!!

This is a dioramic picture taken days after the attack. I have seen similar pictures taken from the air, and they do not do justice to the total destruction.

 

We had decided that, much like our visit to Auschwitz back in 2019, that we would not take pictures in the museum. It just did not feel right to us, though many were taken by others. This one was the exception as I had read about its existence. What many do not realize is the in the moment of the initial explosion, anyone within the immediate area of Ground Zero simply ceased to exist, vaporised by the heat of the blast, estimated at over 2,000 degrees Celsius. It is speculated that this shadow is of a man sitting on the steps of a bank waiting for it to open. He disappeared, but his shadow remains etched in the marble of the steps and it is much more obvious in this picture than it was in person!

We spent more than an hour slowly walking through the displays, some more than a little painful to look at, especially pictures of the survivors and the burns and injuries they suffered in the attack.

Our guide was excellent, and she did not shy away from the hard question, how do the Japanese feel about the United States and the A-Bomb attacks. She said that for the most part the Japanese know that it was probably necessary to end the war. She pulled out a picture of an eight year old boy in a "samurai-type" uniform standing at attention with his brother's dead body strapped to his back. He stares straight ahead, back and shoulders straight. She said that had the US invaded Japan, civilian casualties would have been in the thousands -I have seen estimates of over 1.5 million - and she pointed at the boy in the picture and said, he and other children like him would have paid that price.

A fountain outside of the opposite entrance to
the Museum and Peace Park.

We could call this photo that I took through
the rain spattered bus window
'The Tears of Hiroshima'

We're not sure of the specific meaning of this
monument, but it is situated along 'Peace Avenue'
and seems also to be dedicated to children.

Our second stop for the day - yes, we had yet another walk in the rain - was at Shukkeien Gardens, a large Japanese garden around a pond in the centre of the city. It is beautifully laid out, with a number of walking trails around the pond in the surrounding hills. We're sure it would look spectacular on a sunny day; even in the rather heavy rain - just take a look at the surface of the pond - it was lovely.

This garden actually dates from 1620, but it was destroyed during the atomic blast. The Hiroshima Prefecture Board of Education instituted the restoration of all of the buildings and plants to how they were prior to the bombing.

We wandered around the pond for about 45 minutes and then returned to the bus to head back to the ship.

If we had to have a rainy day, it was appropriate that it should be this one. We will also be visiting Nagasaki next week on the second leg of the cruise.

Kochi's Temple on a Hill

 We've moved south from the main Japanese island of Honshu to the small island Shikoku to visit the city of Kochi. Here our excursion took us to Chikurin-ji Temple and the Makino Botanical Gardens.

We docked while we were having breakfast, and looking out the window at Marketplace, I noticed the welcome the ship was getting:

It was very windy and I was surprised to see that these young people managed to get the flags into the air, and then control them. They only flew them until the lines were set and then they packed everything away.

Kochi is not a huge city, and on our short drive to the temple we were surprised to see large rice fields right beside residential properties and manufacturing.

Our first stop this morning was the Makino Botanical Garden. Dr. Tomitaro Makino was a self-taught student of botany who focused on the flora of Japan throughout his extensive career as a plant taxonomist. He was instrumental in naming numerous plant species, traveled around Japan promoting the importance of understanding plants, and published a book, 'Makino's Illustrated Flora of Japan' which is still studied today.

The botanical garden was established in 1958, not long after Dr. Makino's death. He had always said that Mt. Godaisan would be an excellent location, and this section of the grounds around Chikurin-ji was given to the prefecture for it. It is a beautiful location with views over the town.

A field of flowers we could put into our
garden at home!

Japan is the home of green tea, and we were shown the Camellia Sinensis, the plant that provides the leaves for it. We also had a quick lesson on the difference between green tea and matcha. Yes, matcha is green tea, but it is made by grinding very young leaves to a powder, and drinking or eating the powder mixed into your recipe. Regular green tea is made just by steeping the leaves and extracting the flavour. Another version of green tea, hojicha, is made from roasted leaves, so it is more brown coloured than green. We tried some in Tokyo, and it is also delicious.

There is a temple pilgrimage route around Shikoku Island that covers 1,400 km or about 800 miles and visits 88 sacred temples associated with the monk Kobo Daishi. Our guide said that many people will make this pilgrimage, but most of those who walk the distance - taking approximately 6 weeks - are foreigners. Most Japanese, including himself, take the car. Chikurin-ji is one of the temples on the list, and there are signs for the pilgrims to follow from the garden to the temple.

There is a small statue marker along the path showing the pilgrims they are on the correct path and where they are. We also noticed a lot of grave markers beside the road, and often in some odd spots, and someone asked the guide about them. Apparently in years gone by, if a pilgrim died along the route, others would make sure they had a proper burial near that spot. Pilgrims always wear white to identify themselves, although now it is more like a vest, and there's little chance of having to bury them on the roadside. We did see a few walking around the temple....probably heading back to their cars to drive to the next one after getting their book stamped.

As we walked through the gardens, our guide pointed out some other more interesting plants and trees. This one is the Crape Myrtle, which sheds its bark so the trunk is very smooth; so smooth that even monkeys can't climb it, so it is called Sarusuberi, or 'monkey'-'slip/slide', in Japanese.

Here we found some double cherry blossoms still on the tree. We are far enough south that the blossom time is truly over.

A very pretty small purple orchid:

This is just a little bit of a huge Evergreen Velvet Bean, or Mucuna plant. It is a climbing vine native to China with uses in traditional Chinese medicine. The thing was about 30 feet high and strung right across the walking path. Our guide told us it was poisonous, but I didn't see anything of that when I looked it up. It was just very impressive and covered in flowers.

Even the gardens have their own azalea display, but it isn't as nicely pruned as the bushes at Nezu Shrine.

I couldn't find out what this tree is called, but it
sure has interesting blossoms.

A statue of Dr. Makino in the gardens.

Along with a large conservatory and other research buildings in the gardens, there were some other lovely displays. One had lovely primroses; they would change the featured plants with the seasons.

After our visit in the gardens, we entered into the grounds of Chikurinji Temple. This temple is thought to have been established in 724 by Gyoki, a Buddhist high priest. He had been sent to find a site on a mountain and build a temple to Monju Bosatsu, the Buddhist saint of wisdom. Gyoki found this site, named the hill Mt. Godaisan, and enshrined an image of Moju Bosatsu that he carved himself to found the temple.

The temple has a lovely 'Guest House' with a Japanese garden surrounding it that is said to have been established in the early 1300s by Muso-kokushi, a famous garden designer of the time. The garden is counted as a National Scenic Beauty since 2004.

After visiting the guest house we entered the temple through a very old wooden gate.

The main gate to the temple

The temple is Buddhist, but there is a small Shinto
shrine on the grounds. Many Japanese are born
Shinto but may be Buddhist when they pass away, 
according to our guide.

The Main Hall

The pagoda is quite ornate but is not that old. It was built in 1980 to replace the original 3-storey pagoda that was destroyed by a typhoon in 1899. It houses a small piece of Buddha's bone that was sent from India.

After this visit, we returned to the ship. Again, another interesting tour.

After a sea day, our next port stop was Hiroshima, where we did the Peace Garden and Atomic Bomb Museum tour.

A Day in Ancient Nara

After a relaxing day at sea to rest our feet from tramping around Tokyo, we took an all-day excursion to Nara, one of the ancient capitals of Japan. Nara was established in 710 as the first permanent capital of the country, and for that reason also houses some of the most historically significant temples and shrines, every one of which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We visited three sites - Horyu-ji, Todai-ji and Kasugataisha, each of which has its own significance. In Buddhism 'ji' means temple; Kasugataisha is a Shinto shrine. The 'native' religion in Japan is Shinto; Buddhism was introduced in the 7th Century from China and Korea, and except for the period between 1600 and 1867 where the Tokugawa Shogun family ruled Japan and installed Confucianism to maintain social order, both Buddhism and Shintoism have been practiced together by much of the population. Shintoism is the official state ideology since the Meiji Restoration after 1867, but people are free to practice whichever religion they prefer.

Horyu-ji has the oldest surviving wooden structures in the world dating back to around year 700, Todai-ji has the largest wooden structures in the world, and Kasugataisha is known for its thousands of hanging bronze lanterns and the garden of stone lanterns. Nara Park, where Todai-ji and Kasugataisha are located, is also home to over 1,000 Sika Deer that roam around looking for handouts. You can buy 'deer crackers', the only food you are allowed to give them. They are not very large, and quite cute, as you'll see. The deer are considered messengers of the gods and are therefore sacred animals.

Horyu-ji is quite impressive, especially as it has been used continuously for observance of tradition for over 1,400 years. It is now a museum as well, housing many religious artefacts and artworks classified as Japanese Historical Treasures. It was the first Japanese treasure to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993.

The Pagoda is 32 1/2 metres, or about 106 feet tall. The central pillar inside is made from a single Japanese Cypress tree that was felled in 594! The people who built it must have been geniuses of their time, since they also 'earthquake-proofed' it, using flexible joints to attach the tiers to the pillar. The metal structure on top is shaped like a series of scythes, since lightning was considered a celestial monster and the scythes would repel it. This structure did protect the pagoda once in the 1200s when it was struck, but now you can see the wire running from there to lighting rods grounded near the tower.

The Main Hall

One of two large guardian deities outside the central gate.
They protect the teachings of Buddha from evil spirits and
protect the grounds of the temple

A little about pagodas: they are built to house relics of significance to the particular temple, such a bones or ashes of a Buddha or high-ranking monk, as well as scriptures and other sacred objects. They are usually five-tiered to represent the five elements: earth, water, fire, wind and air, and the spiritual journey through the successive tiers towards enlightenment.

The Great Lecture Hall where many sculptures
and artworks are displayed

Yes, we were here! Too bad most people
who offer to take your photo don't know how 
to compose a shot.

Our next stop was at a hotel in the city for a buffet lunch. Everything was very tasty, although it was quite amusing to find spaghetti and pizza on the counter. Obviously this hotel has lots of western tourists as guests.

Our next stop was at the Todai-ji Temple. It is in Nara Park, which is in the centre of the city. It was founded in the mid-700s, but the temple building dates from the Edo period (1615-1867) because it had been burned down twice during civil wars in Japan. According to the history on the ticket, the current width is about 1/3 smaller than the original!

The Great Buddha Hall is immense. They include the dimensions right on your admission ticket: 187 ft across the frontage, 165 feet deep and 159 feet high, not quite a perfect cube! It is practically impossible to fit it into one photo.

The inside of the temple is just as awesome, with a gigantic Buddha statue greeting you as soon as you enter. In total he sits 66 feet high to the top of his head. 

Another view. Buddha's right hand is over
2 1/2 metres, or 8 feet, tall.

One of the side statues, a golden deity.

And another of a Samurai warrior

This guy wanted to check out my bag to see if I had any crackers! The deer are quite tame and used to dealing with tourists. We came past one man speaking to a deer in French and bowing as he did so. Every time he bowed, the deer did, too! It was quite amusing.

Always ready for a handout; too bad she
was busy on her phone.

A deer in front of the temple gate.

Our final stop was at Kasugataisha Shrine. This is the shrine of the Fujiwara Family, who ruled Japan during the Heian period, and it was established in 768. The lanterns have all been donated by worshippers over many years, and now there are over 3,000 of them throughout the shrine. On two occasions in the year, they are all lit at once: February 3 for the Setsubun Mantoro Festival celebrating the beginning of spring, and August 14-15 for the Chugen Mantoro celebrating the beginning of autumn. It must be quite the spectacular sight; and I wonder how many people they need to light them all!

Along the roadway to the sanctuary

One of the buildings on our way to the sanctuary

The Chumon, or Main Gate to the Sanctuary. It has 
only been open to the public since 2016.

Daily prayers for the nation and the people are held here, with over 2,200 rituals held in a year. 

Here are photos of just a few of the lanterns.

Most impressive is the darkened room inside the sanctuary where they have lit a number of lanterns (with electric candles) so you can see what it would look like during the Mantoro festivals.

In the brochure we received with our tickets, it says that the shrine 'is the only place in the world where humans, nature and animals live together peacefully under the protection of the deities'. A lovely way to describe it, and it certainly feels that way.

There were lots of deer wandering about the garden of stone lanterns as we made our way back to the parking lot and our bus.

All in all, it was a very good tour, even if we had an hour's bus ride each way. Everything we saw was very impressive, and, though we couldn't always follow our tour guide, both in what he was saying and where he was leading us around the sites, we discovered a lot about spiritual life in Japan. Thank goodness for the Internet, where I get lots of the information for the blog.

Next up we are in Kochi, where we have a half-day tour to visit yet another temple.