After breakfast we headed off down Whitehead St. toward the historical attractions. Our first stop was in the Truman Annex, which is now mostly private residences and condos, but started life as part of the original submarine base in Key West. President Truman's 'Little White House' is the main attraction here. Over his time in office, he spent almost 6 months here and used it as a substitute White House. In fact, it was here that he made some of the most important decisions of his presidency, like the order to drop the atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Although he was the most associated with the Little White House, he wasn't the only president to have stayed here, although the last one was Bill Clinton. Now it is completely given over as a museum, almost completely dedicated to the time Truman spent here.
The whole area is very pretty. The homes are almost all made of wood and painted pastel colours - this sets off very nicely the tropical gardens all around them.
One of the most photographed signs. Route 1 goes from this point in Key West all the way to Kennebunkport, Maine. |
Our next stop was the Hemingway House, a few blocks down the street. The house was actually built by one Asa Tift who made his money as a shipwreck salvager in the 1800s. When he died the house had no owner and was left to decay for about 50 years. At that point, Ernest Hemingway's second wife's uncle 'bought' the property by paying $8,000 in back taxes and gave it to them. They had to put quite a bit into upgrading the place but you can see from the photos that they did a really nice job, considering it was the 1930s.
The main house |
The pool - the largest one on the key. In the back, the 'cabana' with Hemingway's studio on the upper level |
Hemingway wrote about 70% of his work here, including 'To Have and Have Not', 'The Snows of Kilimanjaro' and 'The Sun Also Rises'. He also performed some distinguished military service, as an ambulance driver in WW I and as a reporter in WW II. Along with posters from the movies that were made from his books, there is a display of his own military artefacts in the house.
Of course, no mention of Hemingway House is complete without some attention given to the famous cats. The Hemingways got a cat named Snowball from a sea captain. Sailors were generally a very superstitious lot, and somehow believed that a six-toed cat was an extremely lucky critter to have around. Snowball, of course, had six toes on her front paws and became the ancestor of many of the cats now roaming the property. The cats are apparently not all too friendly, but we have to say we didn't run into that at all. Maybe they just know cat people when they see them. Here are a few photos of the feline inhabitants at Hemingway's:
You may have to look a little more carefully to find the cat -- Miss Hurricane Camille is curled up on the pillow. She didn't even twitch an ear when the group came through the bedroom. |
Duke Ellington - he's the uncle to a lot of the cats currently in residence. You can easily see his six toes. |
Does this guy look familiar? He could be Franklin's brother, but his name is Humphrey Bogart. No six toes, though. |
The view from our balcony over the hotel 'beach' and the sailboat for our sunset cruise |
For dinner we tried another of the restaurants at the marina, also serving really delicious fresh fish. We've thought about it, and have determined that other than one dinner for each of us on the first weekend, we've been eating fish or seafood of some kind every day. No wonder our clothes still seem to fit as well now as they did when we arrived!
This morning, since our afternoon snorkeling trip was cancelled, we decided to ride the Conch Train around town, checking out some of the areas we hadn't visited yet. Even though we have the car, it doesn't make sense to take it out to drive only a few minutes, and then not know where to park it.
The Conch Train took us all around the Old Town of Key West, the original settlement. The 'new town' is actually built on material dredged from the sea to create the harbour, and increased the total key size from 1x2 miles to 2x4 miles. There are lovely old houses everywhere you look in town, and that's because the law says if you buy a house, you can't just demolish it and build something new, you MUST restore the original outside view.
The restoration can take some effort since the original houses were built by shipbuilders in the same way they built ships - without nails, so the structure could bend to withstand storms and high winds. Not only do the same methods have to be used (which can be a good thing in hurricane season) but the outside embellishments need to be the same as well. And when you see some of the intricate gingerbread carving on the railings and around the porch tops, you can see that bringing these houses back up to snuff can be quite costly.
Since the clouds that were threatening this morning have now cleared off, along with the two cruise ships that were in today - the Carnival Victory and Oceania Regatta - we will probably stroll back over to Mallory Square to watch the sunset from there before having dinner. Be back tomorrow with more from whatever it is we decide to do.