Saturday, May 30, 2015

A Taste of Switzerland

We arrived in Basel on time after a couple of comfortable and uneventful flights. Being a little on the short side at around 6 1/2 hours, our flight to Amsterdam didn't allow for much sleep time, but we did manage to get some in between dinner and breakfast. The flight to Basel, a commuter flight, lasted less than an hour and delivered us to the airport that has the distinction of having entrances in 2 countries - one into France and the other into Switzerland. That can be a little confusing, but eventually we all met up with our transfer driver for the ride into the city.

As returning Tauck guests, we had a complimentary night's hotel stay at the Swissotel Basel, very nice and central to the river and the old city. The first thing we did, though, was try to make up some of the sleep we didn't get on the plane.

After a couple of hours' rest we headed out into a cool, windy and sometimes sprinkly day - nothing we weren't prepared for since we had been watching the (surprisingly accurate) weather forecasts on the European Accu-Weather website.

Basel is one of the first cities on the Rhine River, and one of the things we found most surprising about the river is the strong current that flows even here, without the addition of water from smaller rivers along the way. This current has been used since the late 1700s to ferry people back and forth across the river before the bridges were built. The original ferry could take 50 people at a time but became a little capacity constrained as the town grew in size, so the first bridge was built in the early 1800s to make it easier to move people and goods around. The current ferryboats (and there are 4 all together, near the main bridges) are quite small and meant only for things like people, their bikes, and their baby strollers. You wouldn't want to take anything larger, anyway, especially on the Münster cathedral side, because the only way up to street level is by the stone staircase! Of course we had to check it out, so here are a few photos:

The Rhine River from the Muenster


The ferry boat just after leaving the other side of the river. The small
flags line the cable that attached the boat to the
cable that is strung across the river.

Larry on the boat. You can see how strong the current is. The
whole trip takes a little more than 5 minutes.

Now this is a little out of order - we walked across the bridge and into the old town first, and took the ferry coming back. The hotel concierge suggested that we start at the Marktplatz, or market square outside of the Town Hall (Rathaus) and wander around the small streets, heading toward another square called the Barfüsserplatz. If we got tired we could pick up a tram there to get back to the hotel. We did make it to the square, and by then were a little hungry (even after our second breakfast on the flight to Basel), so we stopped in a cafe and had a light lunch.

Outside the Rathaus


In the courtyard of the Rathaus

We had lunch in that cafe with the yellow umbrellas;
the local wildlife seems to prefer water that
doesn't flow with a strong current
The Muenster, or town church. Note the
scaffolding on the lower left...

Along our walk - many of the townhouses or
apartments had greenery growing up and
along the walls. Much of it is Wisteria, which
must have looked amazing a few weeks ago in
full bloom.
We didn't wander much farther but eventually found the Münster cathedral and from there the ferry boat. Dinner wasn't very late, nor did we spend much time awake afterward. The only thing we needed to do for Wednesday was have our suitcases ready for pickup at 10:00 a.m., be checked out by 12:00 and back at the hotel by 3:00 to transfer to the ship.

We wanted to see a little more of Basel on the second day, but we could not find any organized tours in the city ([City Name here] Walks tour company, please take note!) so we asked the concierge for a recommendation. He suggested that we take the panoramic tram tour for about an hour and a half. It is on one of the regular tram lines, and there is a small brochure about this ride that gives information about things you can see around the various stops where you can get on and off whenever you want.

The transit system here, like in most other European cities, is quite extensive and used by virtually everyone. Parking downtown is at a premium and since the trams and buses have right of way, it would be almost impossible to get around efficiently in your car. As a result, public transit works on an honour system. You have a pass or ticket that you just have to make sure is valid - no swiping when you get on or off, but if the transit officials happen to board your vehicle to check, you have to show your pass. We didn't ask what the fine is for trying to ride without a pass, but it is probably high enough that it isn't worth doing. We didn't have to worry, though; one of the things we received with our room keys was a visitor's transit pass that is good for your whole stay, up to 30 days. As long as we had them in our pocket, we could ride the buses and trams all day.

We hopped on the Number 15 tram right outside the hotel and rode up to the Marktplatz where we had to stop and check out the local fresh food, cheese and meat market. As you can see, the weather was much better than it had been on Tuesday:




We walked from there back to Barfüsserplatz and found yet another market. This one would be more readily classified as a flea market. People were selling things from old books to jewelery to records (yes, vinyl LPs have really made a comeback) to crystal chandeliers. We had to get a picture of that!

Check out this tent in the front. How are you supposed to
get those home on the tram??

Once we were done looking around, we hopped back on the tram and rode it all around. One of the places on the route is the Bruderholz area, a very nice suburb of the city up in the hills. We had forgotten that many people, if they can, get a small plot of land where they grow their own vegetables or fruit, and put up a little cottages. The tram line went past a few of these:



Our return trip took us back into the old city where we disembarked again at Barfüsserplatz. This time we walked along to one of the other bridges on the river and then meandered along further east until we found a nice bench overlooking the river, were we sat for a while and just took in our surroundings.

One of the many fountains in the city featuring the
Basilisk, Basel's heraldic animal. By law, the water in
these fountains must be drinkable.

Looking across the river at some of the
houses.

We strolled through some of the residential streets and got back to the hotel in time for a light late lunch, and then it was time to congregate for our transfer to the ship.

Our first view of the MS Inspire on our first day
in Basel.

The MS Inspire is less than a year old and is owned and operated by a charter company called Scylla. They provide all of the onboard staffing and hotel services; Tauck only runs the tour aspect of the cruises. This seems to work very well, as Tauck charters most of Scylla's ships for most of the year, if you look at Tauck's river cruise brochures. We had really been looking forward to seeing the ship, and even though we had seen numerous photos, we were still surprised and impressed at how she looked from the inside.  We will put up more photos later, but here are the first ones of our suite:


And these don't include the bathroom (behind the bed) or
the walk-in closet (behind the wall unit where Larry
is sitting)!

Although the ship can carry 145 passengers, we are only 111 on this trip (note that other comparable sized ships will carry up to 180 people), and, according to the guest list, we're split between Canadians (6), Aussies (8) and Americans (everybody else).


We had met some people in the hotel at breakfast who recommended that we take the trip to Lucerne, even though it is 1 1/2 hours each way - we decided to take their advice, so we were off to bed a little early in preparation.

Sunday, May 24, 2015

Europe by Water

Hello again, everyone! Since we're here on the blog, that means we're off on another adventure. This time we are going on a river cruise on the Rhine from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam, Holland. Once again we are travelling with Tauck Tours; their reputation for river cruising is just as good as it is for the other tours we have been on, so we're really looking forward to the experience. After the cruise we will be visiting Bremen, Germany to reacquaint ourselves with Monica's parents' home city. We haven't been there for about 20 years, so we hope that some of the places we remember are still there!

Once again, we can't get Franklin to pose with, in or near the suitcases, so we'll make do with a picture in one of his favourite winter spots:


As always, we hope you will enjoy our photos and comments about the places we visit.