First Visit to Cape Town....
....and hopefully not the last! After a rainy day at sea, we
despaired that we would be able to see anything at all in our Cape Town sail in,
with arrival scheduled for 7 p.m., never mind the apparently spectacular views
of Table Mountain. But, in true Crystal fashion, the rain stopped and the skies
cleared around 5 o'clock, just in time for the best scenery. And having a few
clouds hanging in until the last moment just made the view more impressive:
Our final docking for this cruise, always bittersweet, but
we will be back on Serenity next year.
During the previous day, our last full day at sea, along
with finalizing our packing we couldn't miss the Odyssey Art at Sea exhibition.
Given the number of people in the art classes and the number of pieces everyone
produced, it was going to be quite the show. And it was!
We had so much stuff, it overflowed onto the coffee table in the Crystal Plaza |
Only a small portion of the total. The two front right items are Monica's, too |
More watercolours had to go on the ledge in front of the fountain |
We were also busy knitting. Monica made 2 sets of hat, mittens and neck warmers during this segment - one is the red set at right |
As usual, we (Monica, that is) had a lot of fun during the
class and learned a lot from our teacher, Linda Perlmutter, who established
Odyssey Art at Sea 20 years ago. We look forward to seeing her again next year.
Here are a few of Monica's works:
Greeting cards |
We had fun stamping colours combinations on the paper and then seeing what we could find in the result |
Monica's 'masterpiece' for this segment. These watercolours are based on two photos she took when we did our safari in 2013 |
Now, back to Cape Town. We stayed on board for dinner, as we
would be getting the full tour of Cape Town and the area during the next couple
of days from Monica's cousin Juergen and his wife Maria, who is from Cape Town
herself.
Tuesday morning dawned a little out of the ordinary for Cape
Town at this time of year - everything was fogged in. We couldn't see the
smallest hill, never mind Table Mountain right behind us! Apparently this
doesn't happen often as there is always a wind that blows any low cloud off
very early in the day. We could deal with it, but we felt sorry for those who
had booked morning tours that included a visit to Table Mountain, where the
cable car might be closed...Wait a minute! If we hadn't arranged with Juergen
and Maria, WE would have been doing the morning tour that included Table
Mountain!! Thank goodness for the change of plan.
Juergen and Maria picked us up at 9:30, and we set off. The
tour plan for the day was to drive down the east side of the Peninsula, which
is on the Indian Ocean side (but being the typical German stickler for
accuracy, Juergen pointed out is really the western part of False Bay, and not
actually the ocean), visiting Cape Point and then driving back along the
western coast, on the Atlantic side.
Without looking closely at a map, one thinks that Cape Town
and Table Mountain are right there, overlooking the most southerly point in
Africa with a view over two oceans, but that's not the case. Cape Point, where
you can see where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet, is in a huge National
Park that encompasses the whole peninsula, with Cape Town and Table Mountain
actually overlooking the Atlantic Ocean at Table Bay, a good 50 km away.
Maria will have to forgive us for missing or forgetting a
lot of the information she gave us, because she certainly gave us a huge pile
of info on the area, the history, the politics and the economics of both Cape
Town and South Africa in general. Both she and Juergen have or have had their
own companies, and hearing how things are from a businessperson's perspective
just brings home some of the real issues facing South Africa going forward. She
would make a great tour guide if she wanted a career change.
But let's return to our touring. We started off driving
across from Cape Town to False Bay, and stopped at Muizenberg for an overlook.
Surfing is obviously as popular here as it is in other parts of the south
coast, and we were quite surprised at the huge number of surfers out on a foggy
morning, risking life and limb - there are great white sharks in the bay, and
although they don't happen often, shark attacks are not unheard of.
Then we drove on to Fish Hoek, which was the original
fishermans' village on Kalk Bay. Fishing has always been a big part of the economy
of the area, and there's still some being done, though only on a small scale.
The big commercial fishing is done out on the ocean, and even that is being
affected by global warming. The cold ocean current that used to run up the west
coast of Africa is now moving up the east coast, so the fish that feed on the
nutrients from that current have all migrated to follow it. Commercial fishing
is no longer part of the local economy of this area.
But there's enough fish to supply Kalky's, which, according
to Maria, has been a fixture in Fish Hoek for many, many years, and a must-do
for any fish lover. If we'd had enough time, we would have had lunch there, but
we had 'so much to see and so little time'. For sure next time!
One of the fishing boats at Fish Hoek |
Another kind of local fisherman, having a snooze on one of the tires that serve as bumpers near the fish market |
Boats in the harbour. It was still foggy around 10:30 in the morning |
Juergen at right looking over the offerings from the last vendor. |
The menu board at Kalky's. Even at this time of the morning there were lots of people enjoying their fish and chips. It sure smelled delicious!! |
Our next stop was at Boulders Beach in Simons Town to visit
the colony of African Penguins that lives there. We did run into a couple of
Crystal tours here, but no one we knew. It wasn't too bad when we got there,
but by the time we left, quite a few more visitors showed up, some pulling out
phones attached to selfie sticks. The park rangers would be busy, since there
were signs all over the entrance proclaiming 'No Selfie Sticks'. Good luck,
guys!
A juvenile just molting his 'baby feathers' and and adult |
This cute little guy is a dassie. He didn't realize he was the star of many people's photos as they made their way to view one of the penguin colonies |
After seeing the penguins, we headed into the Cape of Good
Hope part of Table Mountain National Park. It is quite a spectacular drive,
especially along the Atlantic coast, and even the False Bay side has lots of
small bays and beaches.
A Cape Sugarbird. There is a huge variety of species that only live on this peninsula |
Looking northward from the Cape Lighthouse. On the left, the mighty Atlantic Ocean, on the right, False Bay, part of the Indian Ocean |
Looking down over Dias Beach. There are walking trails all over this area, even along these cliffs. This is a hiker's paradise, as Maria can attest. That stuff out in the water is kelp. |
Larry, Maria and Juergen. |
Looking out over the water, that very subtle change in the water colour is where the waters from the two oceans meet |
But if somebody needs a really obvious line in the water, here's one that's close. This is probably related more to the huge waves hitting the Atlantic side of the cape |
Another view over Dias Beach. You can see the walking path that leads from the base of the hill to the lighthouse |
The clouds can move in very quickly out here. |
Next, on to the wild and windy Atlantic coast. Rather than
eating somewhere, Maria had packed a small picnic lunch for us. We stopped at
the side of the coastal road for a half an hour, making sure to avoid the
ostriches. Ostriches, you ask? They are quite common in the national park, and
some of them live near the water - and the road. They're not stupid!
We headed northward along the coast road, back toward the
city and the ship, where we had invited Juergen and Maria to join us for
dinner.
We had a wonderful evening with Juergen and Maria, who had
no trouble suggesting more things to do in Cape Town, along the coast and in
the national parks, such as spending some time on a photo safari in the famous
Kruger Park. But even though we were saying goodbye to Crystal Serenity in the
morning, we were spending one night in Cape Town before flying home.
Juergen and Maria
picked us up from the hotel for an afternoon sightseeing a little further
inland, in the Stellenbosch wine region...but then, just about anything outside
of Cape Town and inland from the Atlantic coast seems to be a wine region, as
most of South Africa's wine industry is centered in Stellenbosch, Paarl and
Franschhoek, no more than an hour away.
The vineyards in Stellenbosch climb part way up the mountains, and there are some beautiful vistas:
The area of Bo-Kaap at the foot of Signal Hill. This has traditionally been the Muslim area of Cape Town, famous for the brightly coloured homes |
The vineyards in Stellenbosch climb part way up the mountains, and there are some beautiful vistas:
Monica's steak - it was delicious, covered with a mustard sauce |
Larry's steak with blue cheese |
We had a chance to look around the Mount Nelson Hotel a little the next morning:
Part of the gardens, around the pool |
One of the special elevators. It looks like a library inside, although all the books are really only the spines with an inch or two of books behind them. |
Part of the lobby. It is a beautiful hotel. |
So, here ends another journey to parts previously unknown to us.
Although some of our port stops leave us wondering 'Why are we here?', we always
learn something new about places we've never been before, and in some cases,
like that of Cape Town, find out there's much more to them than we had ever
thought. We discovered that in both Australia and South Africa there are things
we'd like to do (that don't involve a cruise!) and we'll try to plan for them
in the near future.