We booked to stay in Amsterdam for 3 nights after the cruise. This time we stayed at the Amstel Hotel, famous in Amsterdam and one of the older hotels, dating back to 1867. It is now an Intercontinental Hotel and the one Tauck uses for pre- and post-cruise guest stays.
It certainly is beautiful outside and inside. The only disappointment we had was that venues, like the A Bar and the Amstel Restaurant, were not open due to staffing issues. There is a gorgeous patio attached to the A Bar, but we couldn't use it because there was not enough hotel staff to service it. Such is the problem in Europe at the moment. All the people who used to work in the hospitality industry went to other things when COVID closed hotels and restaurants down, and there hasn't been enough new labour to fill the breach.
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The hotel from the Amstel River |
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The A Bar, was used as a hospitality lounge for Tauck guests waiting for airport transfers or hotel rooms. |
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The foyer. It's easy to tell this is a classic hotel |
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In our room, the wallpaper and headboard patterns were an exact match. |
We found the Amstel to be in a perfect location to be able to walk to most places in the downtown area. The only restaurant open in the hotel was the Brasserie. A little less formal but very nice, with tables outside along the river.
This is the beautiful Amstel Restaurant, only open for High Tea on Saturdays and Sundays. If we had known that when we came back from our walk on Sunday, we just might have stayed for tea instead of having lunch outside. The hotel is being closed later this year for about 6 months for renovation, according to one of the receptionists. It would be nice to visit again later, when hopefully all of the venues would be open again.
When we arrived on Sunday morning, we knew we would have a fairly long wait for our room, so we left our extra bags with the luggage and started out. When you're used to having your city mapped in straight lines, Amsterdam can be a bit confusing, as it is more of a spider-web shape. We eventually made our way to the Niewmarkt, or New Market and the Waag, the Weigh House. This building was a gate the original city walls.
After consulting the map to see exactly where we were and how we would get back to the hotel, we took a route back that would lead us through Dam Square, where the Royal Palace and the National Memorial to Soldiers and Resistance Fighters in World War II are located. And, as if they knew we were coming, the memorial was covered in scaffolding!
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The Waag |
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The current view of the National Memorial |
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The Royal Palace, not used as a residence |
Dinner at the Brasserie in the hotel was delicious, but we really couldn't eat a lot. Already pretty 'fooded-out', we just had main courses and shared a lovely cheese platter for dessert. The sunset view from our room at about 10:30 was gorgeous.
When we checked in, Larry talked to the concierge about getting tickets for the Rijksmuseum. We had heard that it was still required to book ahead for capacity control, and that some of the smaller museums were almost impossible to get into on short notice. We got tickets for Monday morning, and walked the 15 minutes to the museum from the hotel.
We spent about 3 1/2 hours in the museum and saw a good portion of the exhibits. The most famous one, Rembrandt's Night Watch, is currently under restoration, so it is in a glass room while the work is being done. So I guess this is the equivalent to scaffolding for the painting! It's fortunate that we weren't here a few months earlier, as the painting spent a couple of months face-down so they could remove the old frame. We wouldn't have been able to see it at all.
It was quite busy, even with the capacity control. It was hard to get close to some of the exhibits, like the Jan Vermeer paintings, but we found some other exhibits that were very interesting:
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This is a full-sized work by Willem van de Velde in ink on canvas. The detail work is amazing. These must have taken him a very long time to do. |
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A Delftware Violin |
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A Windmill on a Polder Waterway by Paul Constantin Gabriel. It just looks so serene... |
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A Van Gogh Sketch: Wheat Reaper |
We asked the concierge for a restaurant recommendation for lunch after the museum. He suggested Nel, with a patio on a shady square part way between the museum and the hotel. We found the restaurant and had a light lunch. There was a flower market and a cheese stand in the same square. If we had been staying longer, I would have picked up some cheese to nibble on in our room.
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There are lots of houseboats in the larger canals, and many of them have container gardens on them. More later. |
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Lunch - Shrimp Croquettes with Salad and Bread |
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A 'Toasty' - Grilled Sandwich with cheese and turkey |
For dinner that night, we just shared two appetizers and had some ice cream for dessert. We had to start cutting down sometime, and the appetizers were large and delicious.
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Smoked Salmon on a Phyllo crostada |
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Caesar Salad with Chicken Thigh and a Poached Egg |
We certainly didn't any more than that!
On Tuesday we decided to do an early canal sightseeing tour, and get our packing done afterwards. There are lots of companies doing canal tours in all sorts of boats. If you're adventurous, you can even rent a boat and drive around the canals yourself.
The nearest canal boat tour starting point to us was a 10 minute walk away, not quite at the Rijksmuseum, and we were there by 10:00, so we had a boat almost to ourselves, except for another family of 4.
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Our canal boat |
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The Rijksmuseum |
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This is the Lockkeeper's House at one of the old locks |
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These are some of the rather well-known Crooked Houses |
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I wanted to take a photo of the bridge, but the boat got in the way - had to keep the picture because of the boat's name! |
Our boat captain was very informative, especially since we were the only ones up near the front. He gave us quite a bit of info that wasn't on the recorded explanations. There are literally thousands of houseboats in the canals of Amsterdam. The city has stopped issuing permits for new spots, and the current sale price of these boats is around 650,000 Euros. Even one that we passed that was a true 'handyman's nightmare' apparently sold for over 300,000 Euros.
We had enough time to go for another walk in the afternoon, so we headed toward the Botanical Garden. On the way we found the Holocaust Memorial, quite a moving tribute with 102,000 bricks, each bearing the name of one of the Dutch Jews who did not survive. The walls of bricks, looked at from above, form the Hebrew word meaning 'in memory of'.
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Some of the bricks in one of the walls
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The Botanical Gardens |
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Some of these houseboats are quite lovely |
Once everything was packed up, we headed down to the Brasserie for another dinner of appetizers. We sat outside for a good part of our meal, but it was quite warm, by Amsterdam standards, and once the sun dropped below the edge of the awning it was going to be unbearable. This time dinner was Caesar Salad and Tuna Tartare.
You never know what kind of boat will sail by! This one reminded us of Larry's cousin Jim's raft that they used to ride around Walker's Lake. Nothing like seeing the canals of Amsterdam in style!
We were out of the hotel by 8:30 on Wednesday morning for our flight home. It was a great cruise and a lovely time in Amsterdam, but we were ready to go home for the summer. Travelling has returned, a little differently, perhaps, and we'll see how things continue to change with COVID still around.
Our next trip will be in September, closer to home as we'll be sailing the St. Lawrence River from Montreal to St. John's, Newfoundland and back.