Our first actual scheduled excursion on the cruise was in Castries, St. Lucia. The Culinary Centre chef was accompanying a tour to a coffee and cacao (among other things) plantation that also produces chocolate under its own brand, and is home to a hotel and restaurant. We would be getting a demonstration of the cacao growing and chocolate making process, and then have lunch at the hotel restaurant before returning to the ship.
It was a small tour, only 9 of us including Chef David Shalleck, who coincidentally was also the Culinary Centre chef when we sailed on Oceania Riviera in the Mediterranean in July 2017 (leading us on a couple of local market/cooking tours on that cruise), and one of the Destination Services team members. This was a brand new tour for both Oceania and the local tour operator, so they wanted to confirm the service and that the tour was presented as described.
We started out driving to Soufriere on the other side of the island in a small bus with our local tour guide, Verna. She was very knowledgeable and gave us lots of information on St. Lucia's history and other aspects of life on the island. She must be very good, as she told us that she had been chosen to guide the (now) Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh, Prince Edward and Sophie, on a tour of the island on their visit earlier this year.
We had a couple of photo stops along the way, a little on the busy side as we were in port with MSC Seaside, another of the 4,000 guest-sized ships, but we managed to get a few photos:
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The Pitons, two of the three largest on the island. Soufriere is down below |
We arrived at the Rabot Estate, which was established around 1745 on 140 acres of land as one of the first agricultural estates on the island. The main crops grown here are coffee and cacao, but as cacao needs to be grown along with other plants, they also produce pineapples, oranges, grapefruit and coconuts among others. About 20 years ago the estate was bought by two British entrepreneurs - lovers of chocolate and the almost forgotten process of hand-producing it - who wanted to revive the industry.
They now buy from a cooperative of cacao growers on St. Lucia who they provide with grafted plants, knowledge and support. They also make sure they are giving them the best prices for their beans to further develop their farms and keep the quality high. Their product is exceptional chocolate from an exceptional business!
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After learning the history of Hotel Chocolat and the estate, it is no wonder that Prince Charles visited to break ground for the production facility and hotel in 2008. |
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The Seederie, where seedlings are grafted on to base plants. This method reduces the production time for cacao beans from 5 years to 3. |
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Coconut is one of the other crops grown along with cacao. This is how new coconut palms start out. |
The info on these two blackboards tells much of what you need to know about the variety of cacao they grow here, its quality, and the way the local growers' cooperative benefits everyone.
These are the small saplings taken from the estate's stock that will be grafted on to base plants and then grown and harvested by the local farmers.
After splicing the root stock and sapling together, they wrap the sapling tightly with a stretchy form of paraffin wax to protect it from moisture. It only takes a couple of weeks for the nodes on the saplings to start growing into leaves.
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Enough said??? |
The demonstration area at the Cocoa Bar includes a stall where you can buy 'velvetised' ice cream, milk shakes, and drinks. 'Velvetised' means that the chocolate has been mixed with a little vodka and cream. There is also a bar which serves chocolate inspired cocktails and stands where you can purchase chocolate bars (50%, 65% and 72% cocoa), cocoa nibs, chocolate sticks that you grate into hot milk to make hot cocoa, as well as a line of beauty products called Rabot 1745 that are made with the cocoa butter they don't need in making the chocolate.
Our guide at Hotel Chocolat, Marina, did all the hard work in demonstrating how to make chocolate by hand. It only needs 3 ingredients - prepared (fermented and dried) cocoa beans, cocoa butter, and icing sugar. She used a granite mortar (preheated in an oven) and pestle and quite a bit of elbow grease:
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The ingredients and the heated mortar |
while we were offered samples of the 65% chocolate
After she had finished smashing the cocoa nibs almost to a powder, she added the cocoa butter
and we were offered a taste of the 72% chocolate
And finally she added a little bit of sugar. If you are an individual doing the tour, they'll sweeten the chocolate to your taste and then pour it into a 'Hotel Chocolat' mould so you have your very own custom-produced chocolate bar.
After the demonstration and tasting were complete, we headed into the hotel restaurant for our lunch. You can't beat the view of Petit Piton and the jungle. There's even an infinity pool just below the restaurant for hotel guests to enjoy.
Lunch started off with Cocoa Nib bread along with pesto, butter with cocoa, and a very lightly sweetened chocolate dipping sauce
My Three-Layer Quinoa appetizer was topped with cocoa confit tomato and pumpkin. Very light and delicious!
The Snapper Fricassee was served over a pineapple and potato base and glazed with coconut and cocoa butter sauce. Also amazing!
Larry ordered a fresh-made burger that comes in a cacao-pod shaped bun. The cocoa influence here is in the onions and the smoked bacon.
The cocoa dessert was chocolate mousse with velvetised ice cream and a thin chocolate wafer
The non-cocoa dessert was 3 flavours of sorbet - pineapple, coconut and strawberry
We didn't know this until I started researching a few things for this post, but Hotel Chocolat has a number of stores in the UK, and even also has a restaurant in London! Two guys who wanted to revive a dying tradition of chocolate-making have certainly created a sustainable bean-to-bar-to-table industry showcasing St. Lucia's quality product to chocoholics everywhere.
After this informative and delicious tour, we all boarded an open speedboat for the high-speed ride around the island back to Castries and the ship.
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A final view of Petit Piton |
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Quick stop to check out the local 'bat cave'
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There are some beautiful resorts on St. Lucia, along with the ubiquitous 'Sandals' |
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It was looking like we'd get a bit of a dousing from this rain squall, but we managed to avoid it |
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Our ship from our boat |
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The balcony on the port (left) side under the big overhang belongs to our suite |
We still had to eat dinner, and went to Toscana in the evening - details on what we ate are in the 'Food Post'. And when we got back to our suite, we found that it had been decorated with balloons and a Happy Birthday banner. Love the towel birthday cake, too!