Sunday, June 3, 2012

Day 9 Transfer to Munich

It was still rainy when we all got up the next morning. Our suitcases didn't have to be out until 7:30 A.M. (a distinct advantage of river cruising) but our bus transfer to Munich was leaving just after 9:00. Many of our fellow cruisers were taking the post-cruise package that went to Prague, so we said our goodbyes at that point. We had spent quite a bit of time with the couple who lives closest to us – around Yonge and Finch – and found out that they would be in Berlin at the same time as we were, after their trip to Prague. Maybe we'd find a way to get together; if not, we'd try to see them once we got home.


So, off we went, all 23 of us, to Munich. Our guide for the next 3 days would be a nice fellow named Jeff, originally from London but living in Munich for about the last 15 years. Our tour stop was in yet another old city, this time in Regensburg, where we'd get a tour and an hour or so for lunch.

While we had passed through rain showers and thick, heavy fog on our way from the ship, by the time we arrived the sun came out and the day had turned beautiful and warm. The old city is quite lovely – it is actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site – with the flowers just starting to bloom in the window boxes and gardens. Here are a few photos:

Original bridge to the town wall & gate


The 'Dom' or cathedral




Outside the old Rathaus, or Town Hall




The sign on the last photo translates as:

I'll eat my fill on steamed dumplings, since steam doesn't have any calories!

That's some good advice to keep in mind for the next week or so of eating good German food (and those small German portions!).

And this is what we finally had for lunch in the courtyard at the Ratskeller:


Larry- Sauerbraten with Spaetzle and Red Cabbage
Monica – The local Asparagus Special.

White asparagus is a springtime tradition all across Germany. They grow white asparagus here instead of the green variety. It is quite a bit larger than what we get at home (even the white) and is served with Hollandaise Sauce and parsley potatoes. Most often you can get some cooked ham on the side. Boy, was that ever delicious! Anybody who wants to try some when we get home just needs to ask!

Once we arrived in Munich and got settled into the hotel, we took our first walk through town. We were in the Le Meridien Hotel, conveniently situated right across the street from the Hauptbahnhof, or main train station. Inconveniently, though, it is also situated all the way across the city centre from places like the Hofbräuhaus and many of the really nice restaurants. But, on the positive side, it meant that we could walk off the calories consumed by beer (non-alcoholic), wine and food before we got back to the hotel! Interestingly, every brewery in Munich, and there are at least six of them (!), makes a non-alcoholic beer and it is clearly listed alongside all the other beers on every menu card. Even better, it is served "Vom Fass" or, "on tap" in 1 litre and half-litre steins, which Larry says makes it taste even better than the bottled Beck's non-alcoholic beer has at home!

After confirming our bearings on the map with Jeff, we set off to rediscover Munich. While we had not been here since the 1975 school trip, as we headed toward the centre of town, the Marienplatz, things began to look more and more familiar and we soon felt right at home. While the storefronts may have changed, the landmarks are the same, and without too much trouble we soon found ourselves in the main beer hall of the Hofbräuhaus enjoying our first refreshments!!



While it was tempting to have dinner at the HB, on our way we had passed a much more intriguing restaurant called the Haxnbauer. We had actually detected the aroma of roasting pork from about a block away, and when we passed the racks of pork hocks (hence the name – Haxen) on a rotisserie in the window, we knew where we were going to have dinner!!! And it was wonderful. And Monica's Mom will be soooo jealous when she sees the pictures!!!!



Chunks of roasted pork hock and veal shank with semolina 'knoedel'


The kitchen and 'take-out'. In the background you can see the hocks roasting...
After a fabulous dinner, we headed back to the hotel. On the way we made an interesting discovery. The street beside the hotel is called Goethestrasse and it seemed very familiar to us. Back in 1975 we stayed at a small hotel called the Pension Mariandl and we were both sure it was on this street. Plus, we both remembered it was not far from Marienplatz. A quick check of Google confirmed that not only were our ancient memories correct, but that the hotel is still there!! Unfortunately time prevented us from tripping down that particular memory lane, but once again it shows it's a small world indeed!!

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