Dover, once we arrived there, looked just as we remembered
it, except that the White Cliffs had a lot more greenery growing on them. Our
tour bus guide from London had already remarked on that during the drive,
telling us that it has been increasing over the past 15 years, ever since the
opening of the Channel Tunnel. Those who wonder about things like this figure
that it is because the smaller number of cars using the ferries have left the
Dover air cleaner, so the chalk hills are more able to sustain the plants that
take hold there.
It seems that ferry service between Dover and Calais might
actually be even more reduced - or at least it is right now, and not because
anyone wants it that way. Our drive to Dover took us about 3 hours (our last
trip to Dover only took about 2 hours from Southampton, which is farther out
than London!) because of issues on the French side that have most of the ferry
service and the cargo train service from England disrupted to a huge degree.
Cargo trucks and trailers can't get across because of blockades by ferry
workers in Calais complaining about the current owner selling the ferries, and
the Tunnel has a problem with migrants from eastern Europe and northern Africa
wanting to get to England by any means possible, including sneaking into,
under, and on top of trucks, trailers and even the Chunnel Eurostar passenger
trains! The net effect of this is that the M20, the main motorway to the
Channel Tunnel entrance and Dover, has been closed off more often than not, and
has become a parking lot for trucks waiting to get across to Europe. Everybody
is waiting for the French government to step up and do something about both
issues, but nothing is happening so far except that everyone outside of France
is getting really fed up with the French government. So right now there is no
easy way to get from England to the Continent on wheels, and drivers have to
take some inventive detours to get around the problem.
Since that was one issue we would avoid, we did finally
manage to get to Dover and on board. The first person we saw as we boarded was
Guiseppe, one of the section headwaiters in the Dining Room. So far it has been
like old home week (as usual) with the crew, but we've seen surprisingly few
regular guests. We already knew that Keith and Anne Marie would be on board,
but we usually see more people we have cruised with before.
Sailaway was delayed a bit because of the traffic issue with
later flights transferring in, but in the end we got everyone on board and left
Dover while we were having dinner.
Our first port stop was supposed to be St. Peter Port,
Guernsey, but we already knew that there was some windy and unsettled weather
coming in from the Atlantic. The first night in the Channel was quite
rocky-rolly, and when we got up in the morning (panicking because the alarm
didn't go off and we would have only a half-hour before our tour) and looked
out the window, all we could see was fog and rain and waves - and the ship
moving. A quick glance at the TV showed that we had already passed Guernsey,
and a few minutes later, Captain Vorland made an announcement to confirm not
only that we had an unscheduled sea day, but also that we would not be going to
Wateford on Monday, also because of the weather. But Crystal, being Crystal,
had scrambled around and managed to get us into Cobh (pronounced Cove for those
of you who don't know anyone named Siobhan) and arrange excursions into and
around Cork.
Now, finally, we'll get to some photos! We chose the option
of going to Midleton and to the Jameson's Whiskey Distillery. Our tour was over an hour long and took us
through both the history of Jameson's (established by John Jameson in Dublin in
1760) and the particular whiskey-making process that they use. At the end there
was, of course, a whiskey tasting. A few of us also volunteered to do a
comparison tasting between Scotch (Johnny Walker Black), Bourbon (Jack Daniels)
and Jameson's Original. Any guesses as to which was everyone's favourite???
One of the old malt grinding wheels |
The Master Distiller's 'Cottage' - with 26 rooms!! |
An old delivery truck |
Jameson's triple distills its whiskey, which is why it
tastes so much smoother than many others, and also why it is so different from
Scotch (twice) and Bourbon (once). The main difference in taste from Scotch comes from the malt being dried over a clean fire that doesn't impart any flavour or
aroma into the grain, unlike Scotch where the malt is dried over peat fires.
The triple distilling process is also very interesting. It is literally that the
alcohol fumes created when the malt and water are mixed with yeast and heated
that move from the still into a condenser and are turned back into a liquid
state with a fairly high alcohol percentage. This liquid is heated again,
creating an even higher proof alcohol, and then for a third time, where the
product is about 160 proof (80% alcohol) and much
purer. It is then placed into
casks and aged before being mixed with ultra-pure water to bring the alcohol
content to a level fit for consumption.
The cooper's room, where barrels would be made from American Oak. Spanish casks are also used after they've held sherry. |
A look at the barrel aging process as the years go by. The final concentration has a very high alcohol content and needs to be cut with demineralized water. |
No, there are no worms in this tub! It is actually the old condenser, where the alcohol vapour was sent through a large number of tubes to cool down. The tubes apparently look like big worms. |
Larry at the Distiller's Academy |
The comparative whiskey tasting. Jameson's remains Monica's favourite |
Larry found a really, really big bottle of Jameson's |
Even though the distillery is in the centre of Midleton, we
didn't have enough time to take a walk around before heading back to the ship.
Even though it was a replacement stop, Daniel and the Shorex team did a really
good job of making alternate arrangements for us, and everyone we talked to had
had a great day.
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