After two long, but uneventful flights, we arrived in Lisbon
early Monday afternoon. Lisbon is about as far south and west of Munich (where
we landed from Toronto) as Ft. Lauderdale is from Toronto, which probably explains
why so many Germans go to Spain/Portugal for the winter! A short taxi ride
delivered us to the Sofitel Liberdade, located, oddly enough, on Avenida
Liberdade (literally Liberty Avenue) not far from the centre of Lisbon. Our
room, a Junior Suite on the 6th floor was quite comfortable, with a separate
sitting area. Being as neither of us got more than maybe three hours of sleep,
the rest of the afternoon was passed in high impact aerobic napping!!
Monica had checked out the menu for the restaurant in the
hotel, AdLib, and thought it unimpressive, but since neither of us was in the
mood to wander far, we decided to check out the lobby bar, and then the
restaurant. We were seated at a very nice table on the patio (AKA - the street
in front of the hotel) and had what turned out to be a very nice dinner from
their tasting menu. Started with a marinated octopus salad, followed by a soup,
then two entrees, sea bream and veal tenderloin, and then dessert. Sounds like
a lot, but the portions were small, and very tasty. Sometimes the info on the
internet can be deceiving!
For Tuesday afternoon we had booked a private car tour of
Lisbon, so after breakfast in the hotel, we set out to explore some of downtown
Lisbon. We knew the historic district in the centre of town included the
castle, and that it was on a hill, so we set out to find it. We discovered we
were only about a ten minute walk from"downtown", and we also
discovered the castle sits on a REALLY HIGH hill! Sort of like Hamilton
Mountain! Always up for a challenge, we decided to try and walk up. And got
lost! Well, not really lost, we had a map, but we couldn't seem to find any
road that went up the hill. Stopping at a nearby tourist kiosk we found out it
was just as well, as that area is known for pickpockets, and we were directed
to the two elevators that take one quickly, and with much less sweat, to the
top of the hill. Along the way, we bumped into a couple and his Mom, travelling
from Sydney, Australia (!) who are also on the ship, though we have not seen
them on board yet.
The Castle Saint George was originally built in the 11th
Century and served as the home of the various and sundry Kings of Portugal. It
sits atop the highest of what, we found out later, are the seven hills that
make up Lisbon, and as you can see from the pictures, the views are quite
impressive. We walked all around the castle grounds, and up onto the castle
parapet as well, which had Monica's vertigo kicking in just a bit! Most of what
was the Royal Residence has disappeared over the years, and what little
interior there is was given over to
shops and restaurants, so there wasn't much else to see.
After about an hour, we had seen what there was to see, and
given that our tour was set for a 2:00 pickup at the hotel, we decided to head
back, retracing our steps without even getting lost. Along the way we decided
lunch was in order. Av Liberdade is a very wide main street, but on either side
are access roads (for want of a better word) to get to the actual shops,
hotels, etc. These streets are separated by wide boulevards on each side of the
main street, and the whole thing is arched over with enormous mature trees! It
is a very impressive sight, and makes for a comfortable walk. Dotted along the
boulevard are little outdoor cafes, small kiosks with tables and table service
and we stopped at one near the hotel. No pictures, but the sandwiches we had
were both very large and very good! And the beer/wine that accompanied lunch
wasn't bad either!
In the afternoon our driver, Fernando, arrived a little
early, and off we went. There is a usual route for the half-day city tour that
includes The Monastery that started out as a small fisherman's chapel, the
monument to the Explorers, and a visit to the Belem Tower. We had already seen
these when we were here two years ago, on our way out to the town of Sintra, so
we asked Fernando if we could substitute a trip across the river to see the
Christ the King statue that overlooks Lisbon. He had no problem with that,
saying that it actually gets a little boring doing the same trip every time,
so it would be an interesting change for him, too. Not only did we go to the
statue, but since we were on the other side of the river, Fernando also took us
to see the beach area where the entire city goes on nice summer days.
Fortunately there wasn't much traffic on the 25. April Bridge (which looks just
like the Golden Gate and was named to commemorate Portugal's independence day),
so we got there very quickly and spent some time at the overlook.
The story of the statue is that the prime minister of
Portugal, having visited Rio de Janeiro and seen the statue of Christ the
Redeemer on Corcovado, promised the people that, if they remained neutral and
did not enter World War II, with donations from them he would have their own
Christ statue built. They did stay neutral, and he kept his promise. The statue
was dedicated in 1966 after 10 years of work. The interesting point here is
that, although this statue itself is much smaller than the one in Rio, the
total height of the statue and the pedestal is exactly the same as just the
statue standing on Corcovado! That one is huge - we saw it in 2000, but at the
time it was covered in wooden scaffolding, so we didn't get the full effect.
One can even take an elevator up to the statue and walk out on the tops of the arms. Fernando said he would pay for us to go, but it seemed a long way up, on top of a long way above the river. |
The chapel inside the base - can also be used to pray for courage to walk out on the arms if needed! |
Stained glass opposite the chapel altar |
After our quick visit to the beach, which is also very
impressive, as the boardwalk and small restaurants and shop buildings stretch
literally for miles and miles, we headed back into Lisbon and did some of the
usual things; visiting churches and taking a look at the various parts of the
city, each with its own particular ambience. As an interesting and humourous
side note, each time we left the car and returned, Fernando had to wave a card
over the satellite system so the office would know where he was. At one point
during the afternoon, being WAY off the normal route, his boss called to ask
him if he had decided to go to the beach for the afternoon! He told his boss he
had been kidnapped by a "big guy from Canada" who wanted to go to the
beach instead! We all had a good laugh over that one!
Fernando then took us back across the bridge and showed us
some of the neighbourhoods of Lisbon. The streets are very narrow so it is hard
to take a photo that shows anything, but we made a couple of stops at churches
and parks before he took us back to the hotel.
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