Friday, March 6, 2020

Napier – A Day in the 30’s….


….1930’s, that is!

(Side note: It's about time we got the blog up to date...with so many ports in New Zealand and changes in the itinerary due to the coronavirus, we've let it slip. Will catch up in the next few days!)

We arrived in Napier in the evening and had dinner at Prego rather than going out into town. Turns out that this was not the best idea. We didn’t know this beforehand, but we had arrived just in time for Napier’s annual Art Deco Heritage Festival, which is a really big deal here.

But before we get to that, Captain Vorland had another chance to show just how deft he is at moving Crystal Serenity around tight spaces. Our assigned berth was in a rather small port area, where he would have to swing the ship 90 degrees and then back into the dockage. It was rather windy, hitting the ship side-on, and we had help from two tugboats, but he managed it. Our friends Terry and his wife Kerry were in Napier and watching this from a nearby hilltop overlook. Even they thought it was some pretty skilled maneuvering.

It was quite windy - we needed the help of a
couple of tugboats

This is the berth we were aiming for...

....bow in the corner and then swing the rest of the ship
in. We weren't sure she would fit. but the
captain obviously knew what he needed to do.
We should have twigged to the fact that something was going on when we saw some old-time planes fly by….



We were in the wrong part of the ship, and didn’t know about the air show that could be seen from the aft decks until someone told us about it later. Oh, well…

The next morning we took the shuttle into town early, as Terry had booked an Art Deco Walking Tour with the local historical society for 10 a.m. It was quite the vision, walking around downtown. Lots of people were dressed in 1930’s period costume, and there would be a parade of oldtime cars starting at noon.

Why is this such a big thing, you ask? Napier was literally wiped off the map on February 3, 1931 when a massive 7.9 magnitude earthquake lifted the whole town by about 2.5 metres. Whatever the earthquake left was consumed by fires that started right afterward. It only took a few weeks before the decision was made to rebuild, and many of the buildings erected in the ensuing two years were of the design of the time, later called Art Deco. Now Napier has the largest concentration of Art Deco architecture in the world, more even than South Beach in Miami. Since the 1990s the community, and many New Zealanders from elsewhere, have been celebrating this with the annual Heritage Festival. Here are some photos of the morning tour:

One of the gardens by the seaside

The bicycle ride around town would be starting
soon. Look closely and you will find people
dressed in period costume, and riding
vintage bikes!

The entrance to the Masonic Hotel. It looks
like we're on a movie set!

The art deco plasterwork and paint are beautiful.

Old buildings, old cars, and even the kids
were dressed up in 1930s gear.





After the tour we drove out to see some of the area around Napier and have lunch. Terry drove us out to Mission Winery, which was established over 100 years ago, for a tasting. It is a beautiful place with a very nice view over the vineyards. It’s odd to see a subdivision right across the street; wonder if being a wine drinker is a requirement for buying a home there.




Unfortunately, they were booked out for lunch, so Terry drove us to the Crab Farm Winery to eat. Although the wine wasn’t the greatest, the seafood platters were amazing!

This was a platter for two! Delicious - our dinner that night
was soup with cheese and crackers in the Bistro!

With Kerry and Terry at Crab Farm, about to dig in.
In the afternoon we drove out to see Craggy Range, one of the better-known wineries in Hawke’s Bay. For a very reasonable fee, a couple of us tasted 5 very nice wines, some of which are even available in the Vintages section of the LCBO.

One of the vineyards

The 'Cellar Door' tasting room

The craggy range that give the winery its name.
We said goodbye to Terry and Kerry at the port, but only for a little while. Terry was making a reservation at Doyle’s at Watson’s Bay in Sydney so we could have our traditional seafood lunch together.


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